LISBON, Portugal – At the top of Lisbon’s highest hill, tucked within the walls of São Jorge Castle, and hidden behind two sets of giant, red double-doors is the city’s most intimate hotel. I had the pleasure of calling Palácio Belmonte home during a brief visit this summer with my husband and two children. Prior to our stay, I had done a little research on the property, and had listened to a friend exclaim about the place, but I really had no idea what we were in for. For starters, arrival by rental car during tourist season is like playing a game of Frogger. Welcome to Lisbon in summer.

Palácio Belmonte sits at the end of a pedestrian-only street that spirals down from the Castle on top of Alfama, one of Lisbon’s seven hills. I had the privilege of driving that day, so I dropped my family (our 7-year old son was carsick, crying, and shirtless) and our bags at the first of two gates and drove off to return the rental car. Ever thankful for Google Maps and Uber, I made it back to the hotel unscathed and with the luxury of making my way to our room alone and without the burden of luggage (or children).

The Bedroom of the Ricardo Reis Suite (Photo courtesy of Palácio Belmonte) — The Bedroom of the Ricardo Reis Suite *(Photo courtesy of Palácio Belmonte)*

Walking through the doors to Palácio Belmonte for the first time is like walking into someone else’s grand home when you aren’t sure if they are there. As I was shown to my room, I was struck by the natural light that flooded the rooms, the quiet that filled the halls, and the sound my feet made on the ancient wood floors. I was instantly concerned with the questionable impression my boisterous children were sure to make, but was pleasantly surprised when I found them peacefully playing chess in the library (no joke). The serene atmosphere of the Belmonte’s common spaces, terraces, and guest rooms could not be a greater contrast to the chaos of the tourists visiting the Castle on the other side of the walls.

Beautiful Tile Murals in the Governors Rooms at Palácio Belmonte

Palácio Belmonte is a warren of halls and rooms worthy of time and exploration. Original frescos and exquisite blue Portuguese tile murals adorn the walls and ceilings. The spaces are sparsely furnished with a mixture of antique and contemporary furniture, and stunning works of art. Follow the sunlight through the Governors Rooms (home to the proprietor’s extensive collection of books), through the tiny Chapel, to the East Terrace where chaise lounges and tables are poised to take in the unobstructed views of the city and the River Tagus beyond.

The Maria Ursula Ballroom at Palácio Belmonte

Down the narrow hallway is the music room, which lies adjacent to the grand Maria Ursula Ballroom. Beyond the ballroom and down the stairs is our family’s two-bedroom suite named for Alberto Caeiro, a famed 19th century poet from Lisbon (each of the 10-guest suites at the Belmonte bears the name of an artist, writer, inventor, philosopher, or adventurer from Lisbon). In addition to its bedrooms, the suite features a spacious living room, two bathrooms, and a petite kitchen. Natural light and a warm breeze stream in through the four sets of open windows, each with original stone window seats covered in cushions made of Portuguese linen.

The Living Room of the Alberto Caeiro Suite (Photo courtesy of Palácio Belmonte) — The Living Room of the Alberto Caeiro Suite *(Photo courtesy of Palácio Belmonte)*

The Bedroom of the Gil Vincent Suite (Photo courtesy of Palácio Belmonte) — The Bedroom of the Gil Vincent Suite *(Photo courtesy of Palácio Belmonte)*

Outside the windows of our suite, Palácio Belmonte’s private garden sings with the colors and scents of summer. Bright pink bougainvillea, and orange, fig, and cypress trees provide shade for the hotel’s serene swimming pool. Though not large, the pool is the perfect size for a city retreat and the sound from its jets (lap swimmers welcome) creates a white noise that completely insulates the garden. After exploring Lisbon on a hot, summer day, a swim and a nap in the garden at the Belmonte is the absolute perfect way to wind down the day.

In the evening the courtyard is the place to be. The public space, in front of the hotel where the coffee shop and restaurant are located, is the perfect spot for a pre-dinner apéritif. While the kids played cards, I was treated to a glass of wine with Frédéric and Maria Coustols, Palácio Belmonte’s owners, and the couple that transformed the property into a world-class hotel. I recognized Frédéric as the French fellow I had seen earlier sunning himself by the pool with a cigar in one hand and a book in the other. I sat with Frédéric and Maria as they told me all about the history, acquisition, and restoration of the Belmonte, a conversation that I interpreted as the story of their legacy.

Proprietor Frédéric Coustols (Photo courtesy of Palácio Belmonte) — Proprietor Frédéric Coustols *(Photo courtesy of Palácio Belmonte)*

Built is 1449, Palácio Belmonte occupies one of the oldest buildings in Lisbon, and as such, has the history to go with it. For centuries, the palace was the home of Portuguese nobility, and as the center of Alfama, Lisbon’s most prominent neighborhood, played host to events of national and artistic significance (the palace received Vasco da Gama upon his return from India). Over the years, the original building was expanded, rooms were added creating a labyrinth-like layout, and the walls and ceilings adorned with elaborate frescos and tiles, representative of Lisbon’s prosperous times. However, over the years, Palácio Belmonte fell into a state of disrepair and was divided into a series of low-rent apartments, a guest hotel, and gallery spaces.

In 1994, Frédéric purchased the property with the assistance of the city of Lisbon and the European Union. After relocating the tenants, Frédéric spent the first two years of ownership considering the history and construction of the site and planning the excavation and rebuilding of the structures and surrounding landscape. With the help of an advanced team of architects, historians, specialized laborers, and students, the group spent six years in total restoring, retrofitting, and rebuilding Palácio Belmonte. The team made no significant architectural changes to the layout of the building’s interior, choosing instead to incorporate the labyrinthine style of the original building. Where possible, all original construction materials were reused, from stone and iron, to wood and tile (3,800 original blue glazed tiles “Azulejos” were removed, restored and replaced).

When Palácio Belmonte opened to guests in 2000, Frédéric and Maria’s dream of returning the old palace on the hill to the city of Lisbon came to fruition. In the years following its opening, the Belmonte has become so much more than a hotel; it is a gathering space where art and culture collide with travelers and residents. With grand, traditional interior spaces, Palácio Belmonte provides an exceptional backdrop for a rotation of contemporary art installations, and is an idyllic space for hosting artists, writers, and other creatives in seminars, workshops, concerts, and residencies.

As if evenings at the Belmonte weren’t the most perfect part of the day in Alfama, mornings are an entirely different kind of bliss. Breakfast (included with the room) is served whenever you want, wherever you wish. Each morning, our family was treated to a beautiful table on the terrace, laid with a lovely assortment of fresh baked pastries, fruit, juices, eggs, and even crêpes with Nutella. A word to the wise, don’t skip breakfast, exploring Lisbon requires a lot of energy, especially in the heat of the summer.

Breakfast on the Garden Terrace (Photo courtesy of Palácio Belmonte) — Breakfast on the Garden Terrace *(Photo courtesy of Palácio Belmonte)*

After breakfast, we had arranged to meet Frédéric in the garden near the pool so that he could show us the original Roman tower that he had discovered during the restoration of the property. Built by the Muslims in the 8th Century, the tower had been walled off and would never have been discovered but for Frederic poking around one day. You could see the joy in his face as he explained the significance of his find, and pride emanated from him as our children listened intently and curiously asked him questions about the tower. As we parted ways for the day, all I could think of was the incredible legacy Frédéric has created, and the wonderful stories he must have for his grandchildren.

DETAILS

Palácio Belmonte is located in the center of Lisbon, approximately 20 minutes from Humberto Delgado International Airport. Palácio Belmonte is a full service hotel with an excellent concierge who is happy to arrange transportation, reservations, tours, and everything in-between. Be sure to take advantage of their wonderful insider knowledge.

Definitely do not rent a car with the intention of exploring Lisbon. While the best way to see the city is on foot, everyone eventually needs a break from climbing hills. Feeling whimsical, hope on a cable car and ride it to the end. If you have a destination in sight, Uber and local taxis are readily available and very inexpensive. A great way to get the lay of the land is to hire a tuk-tuk (open-air electric taxi) and ask for a tour. Driver’s are remarkably knowledgeable about the city and its history.

Lisbon has a plethora of excellent restaurants. Palácio Belmonte has curated a wonderful list (found HERE) of some of the city’s best places to eat.

Whats to Come:

Comporta, Portugal ★ 11.2019

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