São Miguel, Azores, PORTUGAL – Last summer after spending two weeks in mainland Portugal with family and friends, I decided to make our way home to the U.S. by flying through the Azores. Where / what are the Azores, you ask? I found this to be a very common question when I got home and was asked about our summer holiday. Curious? Read on…

The Azores is an archipelago of nine volcanic islands in the North Atlantic Ocean. One of two autonomous regions of Portugal (Madeira being the other), the Azores lie approximately 930 miles west of Lisbon, and 1,600 miles southeast of Newfoundland, Canada. Uninhabited until the 15th century, when they were discovered by Portuguese navigators, the main industry of the Azores has historically been dairy farming, livestock, and fishing.

In recent years, an aggressive PR campaign has made tourism a major source of activity in the islands. With new-ish, non-stop flights between Ponta Delgada (São Miguel Island) and Boston, Toronto, and New York, the Azores are easily accessible to North American travelers, and a great place to stopover on a journey between North America and Western Europe. It’s no wonder that the Azores are suddenly on every must-visit-travel-list.

The nine islands, clustered in three main groups, have a mild climate (thanks to the Gulf Stream) with temperatures ranging from 59 to 77° F. The stunning volcanic landscape is due in large part to the fact that the islands are located above an active triple junction between three of the worlds largest tectonic plates. As a result, the topography is incredibly diverse, characterized by algae-rich crater lakes, volcanic cones and plains, and hydrothermal vents that heat the ocean to bathwater temperatures. Since extreme weather never comes to the Azores, the pastoral landscape is electric green, with plants such as hydrangeas and cedar trees growing in abundance. Ringed by sub-surface reefs, the Azores is also known for its beautiful black sand beaches and exceptional surf. If you like the outdoors, are interested in hiking, biking, surfing, swimming, and exploring, then, without question, the Azores should be on your travel radar.

BEARINGS

I spent one week on São Miguel, the largest island (293 square miles) and commercial hub of the archipelago. Home to approximately 140,000 people (about half of the Azores population), São Miguel is a long, skinny island that is easily explored by car, taking only 15 minutes to drive from the north shore to the south shore. Thanks on excellent road system and Google Maps, the island is very easy to navigate. Surf can be found on both sides of the island, but the best waves are arguably on the north shore near the town of Ribiera Grande. The southern coast, anchored by the capital of Ponta Delgada is more populated, and has smaller beaches, largely due to the rockier coastline. The island’s mountainous interior plays host to São Miguel’s magnificent crater lakes, hiking trails and thermal pools. While Ponta Delgada is the commercial hub of São Miguel, the island’s best accommodations are in rural settings where the island’s natural wonders are right outside your door.

Guestroom Exterior at Santa Barbara Eco-Beach Resort

STAY

During the week that I spent on São Miguel I hopped around to three different small hotels. All were equally wonderful and different from one another. However, if you aren’t interested in moving every couple of days, I don't hesitate in recommending that you pick one and use it as a base for exploring the island. São Miguel is small and all of its points of interest are well within reach of each of these lovely hotels.

Guestroom Infinity Pool at Santa Barbara Eco-Beach Resort

Santa Barbara Eco-Beach Resort: 15-minutes from the airport in Ponta Delgada, on a bluff above a beach, on the north coast of São Miguel Island is Santa Barbara Eco-Beach Resort. With uninterrupted views of the deep blue Atlantic Ocean, this is the place to stay if you are looking for proximity to the beach, outstanding accommodations, and excellent food. Each of the 30 studios and villas feature contemporary design using an abundance of concrete, natural stone, and warm wood. The 12-Blue & Green Studios are arguably the best rooms on the property, as each of them fronts onto a communal saltwater lap pool that feels as long as a football field.

There is lots of space to run, roam, and relax at Santa Barbara Eco-Beach Resort, making it an excellent place for families to decamp for a bit. In addition to the Studio pool, which is private to those rooms, the Resort has a lovely azure infinity pool that looks out over the ocean and the beach below – an excellent place to relax and take a break from the sand. Because it isn’t always sunny in the Azores, Santa Barbara Eco-Beach Resort has made great accommodations for relaxing inside. The Resort’s cozy living room and restaurant with fireplace and floor to ceiling windows is a great place to read, play cards, and watch storms roll in from the Atlantic.

Guestroom at Santa Barbara Eco-Beach Resort

Furnas Lake Villas: On the eastern end of on São Miguel, about 10-minutes drive from the village of Furnas, is Furnas Lake Villas. A small, family owned property situated on 103 acres adjacent to Furnas Lake, Furnas Lake Villas is a great place to be based if you are interested in hiking and biking, or just want proximity to the thermal baths in Furnas (more on that later). The property’s fully equipped accommodations (8-individual villas, 4-studios, and one house) are built from locally grown Japanese cedar with a contemporary Scandinavian aesthetic. The villas, built above ground, are suspended on pilings over an expansive reflective pond. Each of the villas looks out over a massive field of grass that calls for picnics, games of tag, and family football. With lots of space to roam, the ambience at Furnas Lake Villas is serene and peaceful. Unwind by the pool, relax on the grass, walk the perimeter of the lake, or take a hike through the forest – the outdoor activities in this area have no limits. The hotel is happy to arrange for horse back rides, picnics, guided hikes, and bike rental.

Lobby and restaurant at White Exclusive Suites and Villas

White Exclusive Suites & Villas: Just a few minutes outside of Ponta Delgada, White Exclusive Suites & Villas is the best place to stay in and around the immediate vicinity of São Miguel’s biggest city. This lovely small retreat clings to the side of a rocky cliff, which means there isn’t much between you and the pounding waves. Each of the 10-breezy, white washed rooms are designed to take in the views of the ocean. The two-story building is oriented around an outdoor terrace complete with a fire pit, massage pavilion, sun beds, and a lovely infinity pool that literally drops into the sea below. If you can tear yourself away from the glorious view from the infinity pool, the small beaches of Praia das Milicias and Praia do Pópulo are just five minutes drive east of White, and offer top notch boogey boarding opportunities and great beach bars.

Guestroom with a view at White Exclusive Suites and Villas

Salad Niçoise at White Exclusive Suites & Villas

Speaking of food, White Exclusive Suites & Villas is known for serving excellent food, but its restaurant is only accessible to the hotel’s guests. Highlights of a meal in-house include fresh caught tuna and local grass fed beef, aged in-house. While dinner is a multi-course affair, the kitchen is happy to accommodate guests who prefer a lighter meal.

Pool deck at White Exclusive Suites & Villas

Views from White Exclusive Suites & Villas

Sushi Dinner at Santa Barbara Eco-Beach Resort

EAT

Santa Barbara Eco-Beach Resort is known on the island as the one and only place to eat sushi (hint: make a reservation). Excellent rolls and nigiri will make you feel right at home, but be prepared to be patient – good sushi takes time!

Just below Santa Barbara Eco-Beach Resort is Santa Barbara Beach Bar, a casual snack bar that is open for lunch and dinner and serves a variety of simple dishes and has a full bar.

Tuká Tulá is quite possibly the best little beach bar on the island. On the east end of Santa Barbara beach, just outside of Ribiera Grande, Tuká Tulá is the perfect all-day spot that is always packed and often requires advance reservation (show up in person to make a reservation for dinner). Serving a mix of local seafood dishes such as clams and limpets, green salads, wraps, and excellent cocktails, Tuká Tulá is so perfect (and family friendly) that we ate there several times. In the evening, watch the surfers come in from the water, and relax while the band warms up for its evening music set (in August, Tuká Tulá plays host to an annual music festival). If you are into surfing and beach culture, this is where you will want to be.

Piña Coladas at Beach Club Santa Barbara

Líquen: Just opened at Furnas Lake Villas, Líquen is a new restaurant from Yugoslav chef Ljubomir Stanisic. Líquen, led by executive chef Hugo Alface, serves food that is emblematic of the island, Furnas, and the forest where it is located. Making efforts to source all ingredients locally, Chef Alface is cooking some of the most refined food on the island, and will likely become a draw for diners from all over the island, not just guests of Furnas Lake Villas and visitors to Furnas. I enjoyed an incredible steak of local grass fed beef that while simple, was expertly prepared and melt-in-your-mouth delicious.

Bar Caloura: If you like seafood, Bar Caloura is the best place to have lunch on a warm sunny day. Everything prepared at Bar Caloura is fresh from the sea and cooked to perfection, not to mention the amazing view of the sea and the swimmers! A small snack bar in back sells sandwiches and soft drinks to go.

Queijadas of Vila Franca: This small bakery in the town of Vila Franca is known internationally for its delicate small cakes. Queijadas de Vila Franca is a traditional pastry refined by nuns in 17th century convents in Vila Franca. The bakery sells these delectable treats in six-packs, which make a great gift to bring home.

Local beef at Líquen at Furnas Lake Villas

DO

Sete Cidades: The Sete Cidades volcano is located in the interior of the far west of the island. The massive volcano, with a diameter of 3 miles, is known for its two crater lakes that are referred to by the color of the water, blue (reflecting the sky) and green (reflecting the ground) (pull up a photo on Google and you will see why this place is so amazing). Frequently enshrouded in fog or clouds, as it was on the day we visited, views of the Sete Cidades are often obstructed. Don’t be discouraged, as the drive – even in dense fog – is a wonderful way to experience the rugged, otherworldly landscapes of the interior of the island. We drove a back route that took us through rolling hills populated by dairy farms and dense cedar forests. Instead of building modern enclosures, farmers in this region delineate their properties with fences made of volcanic rock or hedges of dense hydrangeas. Driving through the mist up to Sete Cidades, the elevation increases rapidly. At the rim of the caldera you can be treated to quite a view of the lakes. The quick descent to the shores of the lakes brings you to the little village of the same name. Sete Cidades is a quaint, quiet hamlet that is a home base for hikers, and a good place to stop for coffee. For a guided hike of the lakes, check out some of the local guides who offer their services through Airbnb Experiences.

Swimming in the heated waters of Piscina Natural da Ponta Ferraria

Ponta da Ferraria: Do not miss a dip in the warm waters of the ocean at Ponta da Ferraria. On the far west end of the island, on the rocky shores of Ferraria, are natural pools that are sheltered from the beating Atlantic Ocean. Unique to these pools are the hydrothermal vents beneath the water’s surface that give the otherwise cold Atlantic waters, bathtub temperatures. While visitors are mostly drawn to the pool because of the unique experience, locals routinely gather at Ferraria to take advantage of the healing powers of the thermal waters. TIPS: It’s a good idea to check the tides before you heading to Ponta da Ferraria, as high tide means you won’t really feel a temperature change, and low tide can be uncomfortably hot. When you arrive at the parking lot, head down the pathway (don’t be confused by the building that houses the Thermas da Ferraria spa), where you will find public services for changing. Bring waters shoes, as you have to climb over the rocky volcanic shoreline to make your way to the ladder that lowers you into the water. Once afloat, there is rope you can hang onto while the waves wash in and out. Ponta da Ferraria is simply a sublime experience!

Swimming in the heated water of Piscina Natural da Ponta Ferraria

Furnas and the Terra Nostra Park: Furnas is a small village located within the caldera of Furnas Volcano. In the central part of the village, the prevalence of hot springs and streams of differing temperatures and mineral compositions have made Furnas an interesting place to explore. A stroll through the town must include a visit to the Terra Nostra Park (part of the Terra Nostra Hotel). Installed in the 19th century, the lush, verdant gardens are home to prime examples of native Azorean plant species, as well as foreign plants introduced by the team of international gardeners that have maintained the property throughout the years.

Incredible Specimens at Parque Terra Nostra

The garden, with impeccably maintained paths, is a wonderful place to explore and stroll before stripping off your clothes and going for a dip into the giant (brown!) thermal pool. Originally built in 1780, and expanded to its current size in 1935, the mineral-rich waters of the thermal pool are known for relaxation and rejuvenation. Maintaining a temperature of 35 – 40° C, the pool is an excellent way to end a long day of hiking, or the perfect place to wake up on a chilly morning. Down the road from the Terra Nostra Park is Poça da Dona Beija Thermal Baths, a spa with a series of small thermal pools that offers a more intimate hot spring experience.

Swimming in the Thermal Waters of Parque Terra Nostra

Surf’s Up! Adjacent to Santa Barbara Beach Bar is the home base for Santa Barbara Surf School, which offers individual and group surfing lessons. Book in advance, although drop-ins are often accommodated. They also rent boards by the hour if you already know how to hang-ten!

Caloura: The tiny south-coast fishing village of Caloura is a great place to swim and have lunch or an evening sundowner. Another uniquely Azorean spot, the jetty that juts out from the bend in the road in Caloura is the place to sunbathe and swim on a warm day. For the oldest and youngest swimmers who aren’t keen flipping their bodies into the cold Atlantic, a shallow, ocean-fed pool is built into the end of the jetty – a feat of architecture that is somewhat common in this part of the world. TIP: Although you can walk barefoot, I would suggest bringing water shoes, as the concrete on the jetty is a bit rough.

Ilhéu de Vila Franca (photo courtesy of Pinterest) — Ilhéu de Vila Franca *(photo courtesy of Pinterest)*

Ilhéu de Vila Franca: Just off the shore of Vila Franca do Campo is an even smaller island paradise. The tiny Islet of Vila Franca do Campo is the crater of an ancient submerged volcano. It’s crystal clear waters and small beach are an excellent day trip for swimming, diving, and snorkeling. TIP: If you hope to visit this little slice of paradise it is best to go on days when the wind and seas are calm. Tickets are sold from the kiosk at the marina in Vila Franca and routinely sell out during high season. Tickets can be purchased in advance, but be prepared to line up and wait to board the ferry, as it acts as a shuttle back and forth from the island.

If weather and wind permit, hire a boat to take you to lesser visited areas of the island. While on island I made contact with a very kind captain, Daniel Mitó, who offers boat tours through Airbnb Experiences. We weren’t able to make the trip happen do to weather conditions, but I would highly recommend him based on our communication and his reviews from other travelers.

Ananases A Arruda: Volcanic rock and surf beaches aren’t the only thing the Azores have in common with the Hawaiian Islands, they grow and export Pineapples as well. Pineapples were introduced to the Azores in the mid-19th century, and became the island’s main crop and source of income when orange crops were attacked by disease. Taking 18-24 months to achieve maturity for harvesting, the cultivation of Azorean pineapples is incredibly unique, requiring large greenhouses, special soil and a “smoking” process that prompts the plants to bloom. Ananases A Arruda, a third-generation plantation on São Miguel Island offers daily tours of its greenhouses.

View of the Atlantic from White Exclusive Suites and Villas

DETAILS

Non-stop flights from North America (Boston, New York, Toronto) to Ponta Delgada take approximately 4 hours. The small airport is easy to navigate with rental car counters right outside arrivals. Renting a car is a must in the Azores. Your car doesn’t need to be big – smaller vehicles are actually preferable – and a 4x4 isn’t necessary as roads are well maintained.

The Euro is the currency of choice in the Azores. Most establishments take credit cards, but cash is king!

Lastly, tourism is just taking shape in the Azores. So relax, don’t rush, be patient, and take it all in.

Whats to Come:

Comporta, Portugal ★ 02.2020

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W A N D E R L U S T

All the rooms at White Exclusive Suites and Villas come with incredible views